1. Some Basics to Learn

Dear DWARFLAB users,

Welcome to this preparation guide for observing and capturing the total solar eclipse on August 12, 2026.

The path of totality will pass near the Arctic, Greenland, Iceland, and Spain. Outside the path of totality, observers across northern Europe, parts of northern and western Africa, much of the North Atlantic region, and nearby areas will be able to see a partial solar eclipse to varying degrees.

For observers in Europe, this eclipse is especially significant: it will be the first total solar eclipse visible from mainland Europe since 1999. In places such as Spain, the Sun may be relatively low above the horizon during totality, so a wide and unobstructed western view will be especially important.

If you will be near the path of totality, or you are planning a trip specifically for this event, this checklist is designed to help you prepare.

This map shows where the August 12, 2026 eclipse will be visible. The red band across Greenland, Iceland, and Spain marks the path of totality. The yellow curves show where a partial eclipse will be visible, with the percentages indicating the maximum portion of the Sun covered by the Moon along those lines.

Credit: https://svs.gsfc.nasa.gov/5647#media_group_380308

If you are still not fully sure how a solar eclipse happens, start with the diagram below:

Credit: sciencenotes.org

A solar eclipse happens when the Moon moves between the Sun and the Earth and blocks sunlight from reaching part of the Earth. Observers standing inside the Moon’s umbra see the Sun fully covered, which is a total solar eclipse. Observers in the penumbra see only part of the Sun covered, which is a partial solar eclipse.

The most breathtaking part of a total solar eclipse is not only the moment when the Sun disappears. As the sky darkens, the solar corona appears around the black lunar disk, and the diamond ring effect and Baily’s beads flash briefly near the beginning and end of totality. These moments make the motion of the Sun, Moon, and Earth feel immediate and unforgettable.

If you would like a quick introduction to eclipse basics, we strongly recommend National Geographic’s Eclipse 101.

2. Choose Your Observation Location

For the upcoming solar eclipse on August 12, 2026, we have an excellent planning tool to recommend. The website Time and Date offers a detailed breakdown of the event.

By entering your location in the search bar, you can get an illustrated view of how much of the Sun will be covered and the exact timing for each phase of the eclipse. This includes the start and end times, the peak moment, and the duration of each phase, which makes it much easier to plan your observation and use solar filters at the right moments.

In addition, the site provides educational articles about solar eclipses, making it a useful resource for both first-time observers and experienced eclipse chasers.

Credit: timeanddate.com | Useful information for planning your observation

3. Essentials You Need to Take With

Based on past observing experience, it is best to bring a collapsible universal tripod,solar viewing glasses, a high-capacity portable power bank with a longer Type-C charging cable, and simple outdoor gear such as water, a hat, an umbrella, and a small stool. The goal is to stay as comfortable, hydrated, and ready as possible during the event.

4. Easily Capture the 2026 Total Solar Eclipse with DWARFLAB Telescope

Those who have witnessed a total solar eclipse in the past often describe it as overwhelming, unforgettable, and almost impossible to fully capture in words. It is the kind of celestial event that reminds us how extraordinary the universe can be, and when that rare moment arrives, you do not want to miss it.

The urge to record an event like this can be very strong, and it would be a shame to come away without lasting images. For solar eclipse shooting, what matters most is a device that helps you set up quickly, track smoothly, and capture the entire process with less stress in the field.

That is why DWARFLAB telescopes are strong choices for eclipse photography. As highly integrated smart telescopes, they combine tracking, imaging, and easy operation in one compact system, making them especially suitable for travel, fast setup, and smooth eclipse shooting.

Whether you are preparing for your first eclipse trip or simply want an easier way to record this complete celestial event, those devices can help you enjoy a more relaxed and rewarding shooting experience.

Explore the official product pages to choose the telescope that best fits your eclipse plan: Shop DWARF 3 / Shop DWARF mini

5. How to Capture the Sun Using DWARFLAB Telescopes

Set Up and Put on Solar Filters.

Place the device on a level surface.
Wear ND filters now to protect the sensor from blinding by sunlight. Do not look directly at the sun for we will not take any responsibility for any harm this may cause.

Powering On and Connecting

Briefly press the power button to turn on the device, while holding it down will turn off the device

Click on "Connect" and follow the prompts to connect to DWARF.

Locate the Sun and Focus

Tap Live to enter the preview screen.

Tap the mode switch and select Solar Mode.

Before shooting, make sure the ND filter is properly attached.

Use the dual-lens view and joystick to put the Sun in the tele view.

Tap the "Track" button. The device will auto-focus, center the Sun in the frame, and begin tracking.

Perform Settings

Select a shooting method.

To take a stacked photo of the Sun, select Photo mode.
To take multiple photos continuously, select Burst mode.
To capture a video of the Sun, select Video mode.
To record how the Sun changes over time, select Time lapse mode.

Set the shooting parameters.

You can adjust the parameters based on your shooting needs. When shooting the Sun, we recommend using Auto Exposure and setting Gain to 0.

Start Imaging

Tap the Shoot button to start shooting the Sun.

That’s the complete process for shooting the Sun. We recommend practicing a few times before the actual shoot to get familiar with the device controls and shooting steps, so everything goes more smoothly when it matters.

Note: Target zoom is only supported on DWARF 3. You can tap 1x / 2x to zoom in on the preview and observe the Sun in more detail.

6. How to Capture the Solar Eclipse with a DWARF Device

Your viewing experience on August 12, 2026 will depend on your location. Some observers will see a partial eclipse, while those inside the path of totality will experience the full event. The guidance below is intended as a practical reference for recording either scenario with a DWARF device.

Credit: See watermark | Partial eclipse, annular eclipse, total eclipse

Penumbra Region (Partial Eclipse Zone)

Credit: AstroXperiences | Partial Eclipse

If you are in the penumbra region and will experience only a partial eclipse, you can generally follow the same workflow used for solar imaging.

1.Here is a step summary:

Set Up and Put on Solar Filters.
Power on the device and connect it to your phone.
Use the dual-lens view and joystick to put the Sun in the tele view.
Tap Track. The device will auto-focus, center the sun in the frame, and begin tracking.
Select the shooting method you need.
Set the appropriate shooting parameters based on your shooting needs.
Start imaging.

2.Recommended parameters:
If you will not experience totality, part of the Sun will always remain visible, which means the filters must stay on throughout the event. In that case, the parameters may remain stable for the entire partial eclipse. For shooting the Sun, we recommend using Auto Shutter with the gain set to 0.It is strongly recommended to test at the same time of day before eclipse day and remember the settings you prefer.

You can also adjust the color:

White Balance: 
Usually set to Auto. Adjust to warmer temp. when you feel like getting a yellow or orange sun.

Other Settings: Feel free to experiment with different parameter adjustments.

3. Shooting method: Time-lapse mode is recommended for recording the full progression. If you plan to remove filters during totality, intervals of 3 to 5 seconds may work well. If you will keep the filters on the whole time, intervals of 30 to 60 seconds are often sufficient. An unlimited total duration is also a practical option. If the eclipse lasts about two hours, the resulting footage should stay within roughly 15 GB.

Umbra Region (Path of Totality)

If you are planning to observe the total solar eclipse from within the path of totality, you are in a very fortunate position. The guidance below explains how different moments of totality can affect your shooting choices.

If you want an image like the example below, keep the solar filters on throughout the event and use the same general settings recommended above.

Credit: Mark Tegethoff via Unsplash | Eclipse captured with filters

However, if you are aiming to capture scenes like the following

Credit: en.nikon.ca | Solar corona

Or phenomena like these, the timing and exposure workflow becomes much more demanding.

Credit: sciencenotes.org | Diamond ring and Baily’s beads

Diamond Ring Effect: This appears just before and after totality, when a small sliver of sunlight shines through valleys along the Moon’s edge and creates a brilliant flash that looks like a diamond ring.
Baily’s Beads: As the Moon moves across the Sun, small beads of sunlight can shine through lunar valleys, forming a string of bright points.
Solar Corona: During totality, the Sun’s outer atmosphere becomes visible. This delicate structure is normally hidden by the Sun’s brightness and appears only when the photosphere is fully covered.

These are some of the most captivating moments of a total solar eclipse. If you want to capture them, review the instructions below carefully.

The next section contains a more detailed explanation and may feel technical. If you prefer direct operating steps, skip ahead to Section 6.2.2, Operation Guide.

Introduction to the Total Solar Eclipse Process

As shown in the diagram below, a total solar eclipse can be divided into several phases based on how much of the Sun is covered: C1 - C2 - Max - C3 - C4.

Credit: solareclipseguide.com

C1: Start of the partial eclipse.
C2: Transition from partial eclipse to totality, marked by the disappearance of the diamond ring and Baily’s beads and the appearance of the solar corona.
Max: Maximum eclipse, when the Sun is fully covered by the Moon.
C3: Transition from totality back to partial eclipse, marked by the disappearance of the solar corona and the reappearance of Baily’s beads and the diamond ring.
C4: End of the partial eclipse.

The shooting guidance below explains what you may want to do at each stage:

C1: The Sun is still in a partial eclipse state. If you are recording a time-lapse with DWARF device, keep the device in tracking mode and maintain stable partial-eclipse settings.
Before C2: About 1 minute before C2, shadow bands may appear on the ground, which can serve as a signal that it is almost time to remove the solar filters.

Credit: Wikipedia | People use white sheets on the ground to observe shadow bands.
More: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadow_bands

If you want to switch to regular video mode or photo mode at this point, the basic sequence is: stop shooting - switch shooting method - change shooting parameters - start shooting.

Shooting Method
Video：
Use Video mode for shooting the totality to get a full video recording of the whole process. This is the method we recommend to use during the totality phase.
Burst：
To capture the process with multiple photos, use Burst.
Set your interval (1-60s) and shot count. Auto Exposure is recommended for autio real-time adjustments, but you can also manually tweak
parameters, which will take effect instantly. For the best results, try capturing more frames (up to 1,000 max) to get a wider variety of shots.

Note that there's a brief delay in saving photos after hitting stop on taking the burst. So it might take some time for the photos to show up in the album.
Photo :
To obtain RAW images, please use the Photo Shooting Method. This method captures images using the stacking technique.
We recommend using the Auto Shutter.
We suggest shooting 20 frames for every session. Do not set to 999 frames, as the exposure will be fixed to whichever is set at the beginning of each session. A lack of parameter flexibility may result in poor image quality.
Please note that there will be a few seconds of initialization and saving time when starting or stopping the capture. Please allow for this to avoid interrupting the shooting process.
During the total eclipse phase, stacking may fail due to completely dark images. Simply wait for the single frame to finish capturing, and you can stop without waiting for the stacking to complete.
Note: The entire process requires continuous manual operation, which may affect your eclipse viewing experience. **And we DO NOT recommend using this type of shooting unless necessary.**
Recommended Parameter Settings：
Auto Exposure is recommended for the entire total eclipse phase (we optimized for low-light conditions during totality). However, the best settings may vary depending on local lighting conditions. If the results are not satisfactory, you may need to adjust the parameters manually. Please refer to the section below for specific manual parameter settings.

How to Adjust Parameter Settings Manually

About 15 seconds before C2, the edge of the Sun may show the diamond ring effect and then transition quickly into Baily’s beads. Allowing a few seconds for exposure changes and filter removal, the recommended preparation sequence is to start roughly 20 seconds before C2:

A. Reduce the exposure to about 1/1000s to capture the diamond ring and Baily’s beads.

B. Remove the solar filters.

Credit: Quora.com | The diamond ring, Baily’s beads, and the solar corona during a total solar eclipse

When removing the filters, stabilize the telescope with one hand and remove the filters with the other so the unit stays as steady as possible.

C2: About 15 seconds later, the diamond ring and Baily’s beads disappear, the Sun becomes fully covered, and the solar corona appears. Quickly adjust the exposure to about 1/100s to capture the corona, then remove your eclipse glasses and observe totality directly.
Max: At maximum eclipse, the Sun is most completely obscured. This is often the emotional peak of the event. Look toward the horizon and, depending on conditions, you may even notice bright planets.

During this stage, it is usually better not to keep operating the camera. Focus on observing the eclipse itself, even if you feel the shooting workflow is not perfect.

C3: Baily’s beads will soon reappear. Put your eclipse glasses back on quickly. If you still want to capture Baily’s beads, reduce the exposure again, prepare the filters, and return to partial-eclipse settings as soon as the bright Sun re-emerges.
C4: The partial eclipse continues until the end of contact.
Operation Guide

Credit: Penn State Behrend

In summary:

When shooting a total solar eclipse, we recommend using Timelapse during the partial eclipse phase and switching to Video during totality. Alternatively, you can use the Video mode for the entire process.
From about C2 - 15 seconds through totality to about C3 + 15 seconds, you may keep the filters off for shooting if your goal is to capture the corona, diamond ring, or Baily’s beads.
During that interval, a shorter exposure such as 1/1000s is more suitable for the diamond ring and Baily’s beads, while around 1/100s is more suitable for the solar corona.
The safest and most memorable time to observe the eclipse with the naked eye is the C2 - Max - C3 totality window.
The timing above is intended as a preparation guide. You can set reminders based on the eclipse timing for your location, but it is still best to react to actual eclipse phenomena such as the diamond ring, Baily’s beads, and the appearance of the corona.

Practical sequence: when shadow bands appear, prepare your settings or switch modes; when the diamond ring or Baily’s beads appear, remove the filters and capture them with the appropriate exposure; when the solar corona appears, adjust exposure again and let the telescope continue shooting while you observe totality; when totality ends and Baily’s beads return, adjust exposure and prepare to put the filters back on; once the partial eclipse resumes, return to the safer partial-eclipse settings.

If your goal is to capture a continuous sequence or uninterrupted video of the eclipse, you may choose not to remove the filters at all. If your goal is to capture totality-only phenomena such as Baily’s beads and the corona, then removing the filters becomes necessary, but this may also mean giving up a more continuous recording. In practice, you will need to balance these two goals.

During the short totality window, enjoying the spectacle while also trying to capture Baily’s beads and the solar corona is genuinely challenging. If possible, enjoy the view first and perhaps record your feelings on your phone instead of spending the whole time removing filters and adjusting exposure. If you are aiming for serious photography, rehearse the full workflow several times in advance. That practice will make a very big difference on eclipse day.

Tips, FAQs and Roadmap：

Q: Should I polar align or calibrate to make my tracking more accurate?

A: No, DWARF cannot be calibrated during the daytime. Additionally, calibration is not required when shooting the sun.

Additionally, regardless of your location, we recommend setting up DWARF and entering tracking mode half an hour before the eclipse begins. Since nighttime calibration is not possible, to extend tracking time, you can exit tracking, recenter, and retrack in the last ten minutes before the eclipse starts.

Credit：pentaxforums.com|Using a wide-angle lens or other equipment to capture the horizon can allow for the later composition of some really cool eclipse photos.

**If you want to record a non-full-frame video of totality, whether it's through burst or time-lapse, you must consider setting an appropriate frame interval. It's recommended to set it between 3 to 5 seconds. Too long of an interval may cause you to miss crucial frames. As mentioned earlier, you can start adjusting the appropriate shooting mode or interval settings about 1 minute before C2.

Q: I see quite a lot of recommended parameter sets for eclipse. Should I refer to any for getting advanced results?

A: No, there is no need for complicated parameter adjustments, as DWARF features fixed focus and a fixed aperture. Our goal is to save you from feeling overwhelmed during the eclipse. With our recommended settings, you only need to adjust the exposure during totality. We hope you can fully enjoy the process, letting DWARF serve as your reliable smart recording assistant.

In addition to preparing your equipment, finding a viewing spot, and checking the weather, please make sure to fully charge your DWARF in advance. When shooting the sun outdoors, adjust the exposure, tones, and shooting modes according to the specific lighting conditions, and set an appropriate shooting interval. Additionally, decide whether to remove the filters based on your actual shooting needs.

Alrighty, that is pretty much all about it. Practice more, only skilled hunters can capture the most beautiful moments. Wishing you a smooth eclipse journey!

Plus, August 12th falls on a Wednesday, and DWARFLAB believes the total eclipse zone folks should be given a special holiday on that day!

The media and websites referenced in this article are duly credited to their respective creators. All copyrights belong to the original authors. DWARFLAB extends special thanks and respect to these creators for their contributions to astronomy.

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Get Ready with DWARFLAB for the 2026 Total Solar Eclipse