This article introduces various shooting modes of DWARF 3 and complements the previous article DWARF 3 User Manual Part 1.
3. Tutorial for Different Modes
3.1 Photo Mode
3.1.1 Wide-Angle Photography

3.1.2 Telephoto Photography


3.1.3 Object Tracking






Note: Object Track, where you tap and select to track a moving object, is different from Sun/Moon Tracking, which will set DWARF 3 to track the trails of the Sun/Moon (moving very slowly to the extent you don't even notice).
3.1.4 Sun Tracking & Shooting

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Position your DWARF 3 as level as possible on a platform, table top or tripod.
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For this process, use Alt/AZ (normal shooting) to capture the Sun. If you attempt EQ (Polar Alignment), it may cause issues with tracking on this type of target and drift significantly.
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Place the provided Neutral-Density (ND) filter over your lens area to protect the sensor from blinding by sunlight before aiming at it.
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Make sure you are in "Photo" mode first
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Manually (or electronically) move your device to point up and at the Sun - (use the Picture in Picture that displays the Wide-Angle to confirm it is in view)
If you notice that the objects in the two views are not aligned, please point the telescope away from the sun, remove the solar filter, and then aim at a distant object (more than 5 meters away). Switch the telephoto view to the main view, and tap Auto Focus. This process will help align the two views properly. Refer to 2.2 Dual Lenses Switch
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Switch to the Tele-photo lens (if not selected already) and click Auto-Focus. DWARF 3 will automatically detect the sun and apply the best settings.
- When you have it in view and it appears focused, go to Function > select “Sun Track” - the device will ask if you're lined up, acknowledge it, then it will Auto-Scan for the Sun and start tracking it. (it may not be centered on your screen, this is ok. If you want it centered exactly, stop tracking, manually adjust your Dwarf 3 with the joystick, then Sun Track again.)
At this point, you can capture individual photos and continue as normal. *Please note that “Photo” mode captures are compressed JPEGs and may not be detailed or suitable for your post processing or sharing, so it may look grainy to you. It is normal for the device/view to show this. Adjusting Sharpness also helps.




Select Function > Parameter, then de-select AUTO-Parameter to change the individual settings. From there, all you need to do is experiment with your Shutter, Gain and select your Sub count located at the bottom of the parameter options.
Notes:
It is suggested for your first time capture, change your number of images to 20 or 30 for your first session. You do have the option to select a max of 999, but that will take a long time and you run the risk of exposing your device to intense heat over a long duration. In tracking mode, the sun remains centered, allowing continuous observation or shooting videos/time-lapses/stacked photos after changing shooting mode to Photo/Video/Time-lapse/Astro. During auto-focus, the camera auto-adjusts parameters, if you may know, typically at 1/250s-1/200s Exposure, Gain at 0, and VIS filter. Do adjust Hue and White Balance as preferred. Please note, due to the absence of calibration in this process, it is very important to keep the lens cylinder face to the front side (DWARFLAB Logo) while tracking the sun and moon. Please monitor the internal temperature reading while imaging the Sun. The recommended operating temperature range for the sensor is below 60°C (140°F). Charging is automatically disabled when the battery temperature exceeds 45°C (113°F) to prevent further heat buildup. If the internal temperature reaches 60°C (140°F), the Dwarf 3 will automatically shut down to protect the system and its sensors.
3.1.5 Moon Tracking & Shooting
- Level DWARF 3 and aim the lenses approximately at the moon. Use dual-lens to locate or the joystick to center the moon in the wide-angle view. You can manually rotate the base and cylinder as well to quickly navigate to it prior to tracking.
- For this process, use Alt/AZ (normal shooting) to capture the Moon. If you attempt EQ (Polar Alignment), it may cause issues with tracking on this type of target and drift significantly.
Switch to the telephoto lens, click Auto-Focus, and Dwarf 3 will automatically detect and adjust for the moon.







- Please note, due to the absence of calibration in this process, it is very important to keep the lens cylinder face to the front side (DWARFLAB MARK) while tracking the sun and moon.
- Images captured in “Photo Mode” may appear dull or lower quality. This is due to the individual JPEG file being captured as a compressed file. Adjusting the Sharpness in Function-Parameter may help.
- For a high quality image, you can complete an Astro Stack, which will be uncompressed and have substantially better visual definition.
3.2 Video Mode
Note: When you switch the app to the background or disconnect, the shooting process will still continue.

3.3 Burst Mode

Notes:
The change of interval settings during a shooting session will take effect to make sure you get a better record of a whole imaging process saying totality. When you switch the App to the background or disconnect, the shooting process will still continue.
3.4 Time lapse Mode


Recommended settings for different scenarios:
Clouds: 2-5 second intervals for capturing dynamic cloud movements, aiming for a 20-30 minute duration. City Traffic: 1-3 second intervals to capture the hustle of city life, ideally for about an hour during peak times. Blooming Flowers: Longer intervals, like 1 minute, for slower processes such as flowers blooming, extending over several hours or days.
3.5 Panorama Mode

3.5.1 Locating the Target

Note: This telephoto view will serve as the center of the final entire panorama.
3.5.2 Selecting the Shooting Range

Note: The size of a green frame is taken as one unit. We will add a range preview in future updates. For now, the best is to estimate visually.
3.5.3 Adjusting the Parameter
3.5.4 Shooting the Panorama

Notes for Panorama photography:
During the panoramic shooting, after clicking the shoot button, DWARF 3 will perform a initialization(about 5-6s), then rotate to the first photo in the top left corner of the entire panorama, shooting from left to right, row by row. After clicking the shoot button, there is an approximate 3s waiting time for you, in case you want to attach any filters. After shooting is complete, the telephoto view indicator (green box) will return to the center of the panorama,as saying, the initial position. In 'Album', the panorama will be displayed as the first shot thumbnail and cannot be downloaded. This means you cannot preview the full panorama on your phone.
3.5.5 Pano Weave


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Don’t rush off just yet! Tap into your panorama and use Curve Adjustment to fine-tune the colors.Your changes will be applied in real time — no need to hit save!Please note:
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Reset does not revert to the entire image — it only resets the last edited channel to its default value.
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To reset the entire image to its original state, tap Revert.
After editing, tap the button on the right to download the stitched panorama to your phone.
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The panorama in the album is just a preview but not a stitched image, so you cannot download it either
3.6 Auto Capture Mode (Bird & UFO)
3.6.1 Bird Capture
3.6.1.1 Locate the Target

3.6.1.2 Click and Record


Notes:
When internal storage is less than 1GB, recording will automatically stop and save. When the battery is below 5%, shooting will automatically stop and save. To achieve the best detection results, you cannot switch shooting modes or manually select tracking objects during the target detection phase. However, you can use the joystick to control the device’s movement or manually focus. To achieve the best tracking results, you cannot perform operations such as moving the device, focusing, or zooming during automatic tracking and recording.
3.6.2 UFO Mode
3.6.2.1 UFO Capture


3.6.2.2 Fixed Spot & Auto Scan


3.7 Astro Mode
3.7.1 Taking Astro Darks

Note: Remember, shooting Astro Dark helps prepare for Astrophotography Adventure and ensures better quality images.




When you first get your Dwarf 3, there may be multiple factory default dark frames captured under the same exposure parameters but at different sensor temperatures. The temperature difference will only be stated in the dark capture page index (shown on the left in the image above) though. It is currently not visible in the parameter selection area on the right. *This may change in a future update to display it.During stacking, the system will automatically apply the dark frame(s) with the closest temperature to your capture.For every 1 degree Celsius increase in temperature while shooting, a new dark frame will be generated. When stacking images, the dark frame with the closest temperature will be automatically selected and applied, so there's no need for manual selection.If you’d like to view or manage these dark frames, long press the relative darks in the dark taking page.Or connect your DWARF 3 to a computer via USB-A or C cable and navigate to:📂 Astronomy > Astro Darks (more information can be found in "How to View and Edit Files in DWARF 3")
Notes:
For optimal results, the dark frame's exposure/shutter, gain, binning and shooting temperature should match your actual shooting parameters. If the temperature difference exceeds 8°C, we will prompt you to recapture the dark frame. The temperature indicated in the user interface at the top reflects the temperature of your internal sensor. It's not reading the ambient or local temperature of your location. It is recommended you let your DWARF 3 become aclimated to the weather at your preferred location first by letting it sit outside for approximately 10-20 mins, so it can either cool down, or heat up. You will note the temperature may rise or fall, based on how hot or cold it is. It is normal to see a much higher, or relatively low reading, compared to your outside temperature. You can store up to 100 dark frames in total. For the same shooting parameters, multiple darks with different temperatures can be saved, so your storage may fill up quickly. To manage your dark frames, long-press any dark entry to delete or organize them.(only stacked darks in Cali_Frame, which is used when stacking photos will be deleted, single frames in Astronomy-Darks will still be there)
How to take dark frames

Note: YES, you can rotate the cylinder. It is designed to be manually moved, as well as the base axis.




Note: You can find the parameter sets associated with the dark frames you’ve captured under 'Astro Mode - Function - Parameter - Preset'. Simply click on your preferred parameter set to quickly apply the corresponding settings. Dark frames captured for wide-angle and long-focus lenses will be visible under their respective menus.

3.7.2 EQ Mode
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Mount the DWARF 3 on your tripod
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Attach securely so there’s no wobble.
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Make sure the wedge/mount is roughly pointed toward your celestial pole (north or south).
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Set the latitude
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Adjust the wedge/mount tilt to match your local latitude (e.g., 45° if you’re at 45°N).
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It is helpful to have a scale on the side, but not required - the app will tell you how far you need to adjust if you manually adjust with no external device assistance
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Rough polar alignment
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Rotate the wedge/mount to left/right so it points roughly at Polaris.
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No need for perfect accuracy yet — the DWARF will plate-solve and fine-tune later.
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Enable Equatorial Mode in the App
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In Astro > Function > Feature > EQ Mode.
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Plate Solving Alignment
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When it starts, it will proceed through a few images to prepare you. It will take a few short exposures, compare the star field to a database, and then guide you on small wedge/mount adjustments, if needed.
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Repeat until the App shows your alignment is within acceptable limits (under 2 degrees of deviation or less)
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You can select "Be more precise" to fine tune your alignment if necessary.
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Lock it down
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Once aligned, tighten all wedge and mount knobs if equipped — even a tiny slip will ruin tracking.
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Start your target capture
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Tracking in EQ mode will reduce field rotation, letting you use longer individual exposures without star trails compared to Alt-Az mode.
Credit: Brett Duncan

Notes:
DWARF 3 does not require you to completely "see" Polaris (Northern Hemisphere) or Sigma Octantis (Southern Hemisphere) for EQ (polar alignment), only a rough alingment toward them Ensure you have no obstructions in your location where it would interfere with the DWARF 3 from performing a series of calibration movements to determine if the device is set at the correct angle and direction. It must see above you to complete its function. Please note the above steps are primarily written for DWARF users in the Northern Hemisphere. For Southern Hemisphere users, please reference this self-made guide created by one of our community members, How to Set up DWARF 3 for EQ mode in the South Hemisphere-DWARFLAB helpcenter.
3.7.3 One Tap GoTo



3.7.4 Configuring Shooting Settings



Notes:
In Astro Mode, after each autofocus or calibration, or when you tap 'end current session' after a shooting, or you have performed the angle deviation calculation in EQ mode, the parameters will automatically change to Expo 0.5s (auto focus and infinity will just to 1s), Gain 120, Astro Filter (for firmware above 1.2.6) to obtain a proper brightness for DWARF’s star calculation. Therefore, once locating a celestial object, you will need to manually adjust the parameters. The maximum shutter time for telephoto is 120s and wide-angle is 90 seconds. Clicking on preset allows you to quickly apply recommended parameter sets. For more details, refer to Section 2.13.1 Parameter Settings and Section 3.7.1 Taking Astro Darks.
More Settings

Format: A TIFF file is a type of raster image format (or bitmap format) that typically uses lossless compression to store images. This format is popular among photographers and graphic designers because it can store high-quality images while preserving detail and colour. A FITS file is the most commonly used digital file format in astronomy. The FITS standard was designed specifically for astronomical data, and includes provisions such as describing photometric and spatial calibration information, together with image origin metadata. Please note: Even if you select TIFF as the format, the final stacked image will be in FITS format, while the individual frames will be saved as TIFF. Preview: The single-frame preview shows the image currently being captured, while the stacked image displays the combined stacked result.You can switch between preview modes at any time during shooting. The single-frame preview allows you to check whether the tracking is working properly. Tele Binning: Binning is a technique that can improve the light sensitivity of machine vision cameras. Several neighboring pixels are combined to form a larger pixel. This leads to a reduction in image resolution, but also to an increase in light sensitivity Mandatory Calibration: this makes your astrophotography process safer and more accurate, ensuring every GoTo goes to the correct location. However, calibration can take time. If you’re confident, you can disable this option, and the manual calibration feature will appear on the screen when needed.
Update Auto Focus(♾️)Position: Astro autofocus (♾️) is now manually adjustable. If AF fails, manually focus on the target to the finest clarity you can achieve and click update here. Later auto focus should also be fine once adjusted! To complete this process, go to Focus, manually focus your telephoto lens on the star field or a known object at distance. Go back and select Function > Settings > scroll down to Update Auto Focus Position, then press Update. Your 3 digit number should change to the manual setting you adjusted to previously while in "Focus".
3.7.5 Shooting & Waiting for Completion
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Once your image session has started, you do not need to stay next to the device or remain connected via the direct wireless connection or over STA mode. You can close the application safely on your phone or tablet and come back later to check on it. The application gives the commands to start the session or set a schedule. If you close your app or disconnect by walking outside the connection range, it will not cancel or stop your session.
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If you swipe out of your app or close, expect you will need to wait a few moments for it to reconnect, or you will need to connect to the wireless connection (either directly or through STA) to see the progress of your image session. After connecting, you will notice a small delay with the image updating on your screen as it processes the data from the DWARF.


3.7.5.1 Curves Function


3.7.5.2 Save Curve Adjustment
*You can also save your still-on-the-go picture during your imaging session. Just adjust the curves, and tap SAVE, it will save the newest stacked image to your phone or tablet’s photo album.
3.7.6 Manual Astrophotography

We recommend using the manual shooting mode in the following situations:
The automatic shooting process fails. You want to keep the focus fixed. Manual mode will not perform auto-focusing, allowing the telescope's focus to remain in the same position unless you manually change it.

3.7.6.1 Focusing on the Stars

3.7.6.2 Implementing Calibration



3.7.6.3 Start GoTo


Notes for Astrophotography:
Ensure DWARF 3's viewing area is unobstructed, with visible stars (no clouds or buildings blocking stars), as these factors may cause Calibration and GoTo failures. Avoid using a filter and adaptor during calibration, as it may cause failure. If acquiring location information fails during calibration, try several more times and check if location permissions are allowed. Pay attention to rotation axis limits during GoTo. Hitting the limit will prevent GoTo from reaching the target. Rotate the DWARF 3 base by a certain angle and recalibrate/GoTo. If the stacked number does not increase when capturing long expo photos:
- Check if the preview background is too bright at the current gain, try lowering the gain and reshooting.
- At Expo 1s, Gain 120, check if stars are in focus and minimized. Refocus if needed before reshooting.
- If the above are correct but stacking still fails, ensure the environment is stable - solid tripod, no/low wind, etc. Then reshoot.
3.7.6.4 Stellar Studio

Stellar Studio requires uploading your stacked image files from the DWARF telescope to the server. Your phone must be connected to the internet or in STA mode connection to use this feature.
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Auto: Automatically corrects star shapes, reduces noise, and enhances background uniformity.

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Star Correction: Adjusts only the shape of stars.

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Noise Reduction: Performs only noise reduction on the image.

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Star Removal: Only removes all stars from the image, leaving a pure nebula view.

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Watermark:The Watermark feature lets you add shooting/session info, your signature, or a fun caption to your astro photos. This feature currently applies to your JPG version only and is saved directly to your phone or tablet photo album folder.You can even choose from different styles (currently two available - more options will be added in the future).Go explore and make your images your own!

Note: You can apply multiple processing features to the same image, generating separate result images under the same title in the task list.


Sometimes the file size of PNG images may not be detected correctly — it’s usually around a few tens of megabytes. You may also notice that PNG and JPG images look different. This is because JPGs typically have brightness and contrast enhancements (an S-curve tone mapping) already applied, whereas PNGs often retain the original linear brightness data without such adjustments. As a result, PNGs may look flatter, giving you more flexibility to process them manually. We recommend sharing images directly, and for post-processing, using PNG is better as it preserves more detail in highlights and shadows.
How to Access Cloud Files:Paste the link into a browser on your phone or computer to download the file for further use.
Note:*Post-processed images will not be saved on your DWARF telescope.*You may notice that the processed photo appears cropped compared to the version in the App’s album. This is because the current processing removes field rotation artifacts from the image by cropping them. We recommend using EQ mode for shooting to minimize the impact of field rotation. We are working on improving this processing method now, so later you won't lose the edges of the image.*If a file is manually moved out of the DWARF device (for example, copied or cut to an external drive or PC), it will be recognized as an unknown file when moved back to the device — and as such, cannot be post-processed in Stellar Studio.However, you may still be able to re-stack the original subframes in Mega Stack, which will generate a new valid file that Stellar Studio can recognize and process. See the next section for details on how to re-stack and restore your processing workflow.
3.7.6.5 Mega Stack


Notes:
To ensure successful stacking, all selected frames must be captured of the same target (or celestial objects with identical coordinates) and must use the same filter. **Due to different wavelengths being filtered by each type of filter, the resulting image spectrum can vary significantly. At the moment, our stacking process does not yet support compensating for these spectral differences between filters. Unlike other features in Infinity Lab, Mega Stack does not involve any cloud-based processing. All image stacking is performed locally on the device (onboard the telescope itself). Mega Stack supports restacking of data captured with firmware version V1.1.8 or later. Files that have been moved off the device can be copied back for processing — just make sure not to rename the files. Mega Satck is designed primarily for deep-sky objects, but now also supports re-stacking for single-session Sun and Moon captures. Please note that only single-session stacking is supported, as sunspots and the Moon’s rotation can affect alignment among frames of different sessions. Astro Mosaic (images with adjusted framing) supports only single-session stacking, as star positions may shift slightly between sessions. This will ensure higher stacking success.6. current Mega Stack feature is quite sensitive to star quality and alignment. If there are frames where the stars appear stretched or have noticeable trailing in any session, it can cause the entire stacking process to fail — even if just a few frames are affected.
7. Although dark data is embedded during the initial shooting process, MegaStack allows you to reprocess with newly captured dark frames — especially helpful when temperature conditions have changed, just retake darks and then restack the session.
3.7.7 Wide-Angle Astrophotography
How to capture the Milky Way






Note: Wide-angle only supports 2K resolution photography.


3.7.8 Schedule Shooting
3.7.8.1 Create a Shooting Plan Directly







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The entire curve on the graph represents the time span from sunrise to sunset.
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The red section of the curve indicates that the target’s altitude is below 30°, while the blue section means the altitude is above 30°.
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For best results, we recommend scheduling your observation when the target is above 30° — that is, within the blue section of the curve. So when setting your shooting schedule, make sure to place the session within the blue zone for optimal image quality. The actual degree will be indicated when you slide the lines to help you set the time.
Notes:
Due to various dynamic factors, the number of frames cannot be set manually. The system will automatically capture the maximum possible frames within the scheduled time. The maximum exposure time for Schedule Captures is 60 seconds. In schedule shooting it automatically set appropriate filters for some common targets, with other targets defaulting to astro filters.
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Plans can only be synchronized for the same night.
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Synchronization is allowed up to 12 hours in advance and no later than 5 minutes before the plan starts.



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Sufficient Power: verify the DWARF device is fully charged.
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Correct Placement: Position the DWARF in the appropriate location.
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Disconnect and Leave: After all preparations are complete, disconnect your device and step away. DWARF will automatically enter sleep mode and wake up at the scheduled start time.
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Do Not Power Off: Ensure you do not hit the power off button.
Notes:
When DWARF is in Sleep Mode it looks almost identical to being powered off — no lights, no signals. However - the cylinder (lens) will NOT rotate closed and stay in its open position for it to better process its position and start the scheduled session when the start time begins. When your scheduled shooting session has been completed, the cylinder will rotate close to a secure position to protect it. This is also helpful incase your session goes into the daylight hours. As some will notice, it does not completely close (maybe 95%, but this is normal and should not worry the operator) Regarding EQ Mode: You can use EQ mode in Schedule Shooting to align the DWARF with the polar axis in advance. Also, you may turn off the ring light for better results. Regarding Dark Frames: Check the dark frame files before shooting to ensure there are corresponding frames available for stacking. If not, you can capture them now. Do Not Power Off: DWARF will enter sleep mode after 15 minutes of inactivity when disconnected to save power. In sleep mode, all indicator lights remain off. The device appears completely powered off, but it is in a extremely low-power standby state. But it is not completely powered off and will automatically wake up before the scheduled time. Do not press the power button, as DWARF will then forget the shooting plan and will not wake up at the scheduled time. Sleep mode and the scheduled shooting function are completely independent. Sleep mode is a power-saving feature that automatically activates 15 minutes after the device is idle and not connected to external power. This behavior applies under all conditions. If your DWARF is connected to external power and you have set up a scheduled session but notice that the device does not enter sleep mode, there’s no need to worry — the scheduled shooting will still start normally. Even if the device enters sleep mode later (for example, if charging stops during the waiting period), the scheduled session will still begin as expected.
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Unexpected Issues:
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If you accidentally power off the device after synchronizing the plan, please power it back on, cancel the synchronization, and re-sync the plan. Then, let the DWARF enter sleep mode naturally.

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DWARF in sleep mode cannot be woken up. If you need to use it in other sessions, manually turn it on and perform the desirable operations. Restarting will refresh DWARF’s schedule memory, so don’t forget to re-sync your shooting plan for the day.
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DWARF will not enter sleep mode while charging. It will only enter sleep mode to save power once the charging stops.



3.7.8.2 Create Plan from Atlas




3.7.8.3 Schedule A Mosaic!


3.7.9 Astro Mosaic


Image credit: Rico SP
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Mosaic Field-of-View:

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The default view is 1 × 1, meaning only one segment is captured (no mosaic needed).
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If either the horizontal or vertical composition ratio is greater than 1, that direction will use 2 segments.
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For example, a ratio of 1 × 1.5 results in 2 views, while 1.5 × 1.5 results in 4 views.
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Maximum supported layout: 1.8 × 1.8, totaling 4 views.
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How long does it take to shoot the mosaic?

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15-second exposure per frame
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50 frames


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How to use the mosaic function?
1️⃣ Enable Equatorial (EQ) Mode

2️⃣ Compose in Sky Atlas & Select Target
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Choose your target in the Sky Atlas and adjust the preview frame.
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Tap GoTo to locate the target.

3️⃣ Set Shooting Parameters
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Exposure time
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Gain
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Number of frames

4️⃣ Auto Stitching & Post-Processing

If you notice obvious light seams or edge discoloration, it’s recommended to manually review and filter the bad sub-frames, then restack in Mega Stack before final processing in Stellar Studio.
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Notes for Mosaic Rotation




The wide-angle camera may allow mosaic photos in future updates.Astro Mosaic NoteWhen planning a mosaic, image quality becomes especially important because the final result relies on seamless stitching between view tiles. To ensure the best outcome:
Make sure your EQ alignment is as precise as possible before capturing. If you notice visible seams or artifacts in the final mosaic, consider recapturing dark frames or filtering out lower-quality subframes. Then, use Mega Stack to reprocess the stacked tiles and finally re-stitch them in Stellar Studio.A bit of extra care during capture and processing can make a big difference in the final mosaic quality!